Flash Photography

FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY WITH MOSTLY BLACK, WHITE
AND / OR HIGHLY REFLECTIVE SUBJECTS:

Even if you use a TTL (through-the-lens) automatic flash exposure system, the correct exposure will not be automatic if your subject is mostly black or white. The same will be true if your subject has a highly-reflective, mirror-like surface. You can and should plan to compensate for these conditions by using your camera’s exposure compensation. You may also manually open your camera's aperture wider if your subject is mostly dark and you can close or stop down the aperture if the subject is mostly white or is highly-reflective.

ARE YOU CONSIDERING ON BUYING A NEW FLASH UNIT?

When buying a new camera and a new flash you will not go wrong by matching a major brand name with brand names. This ensures that both flash and camera are compatible and are made for each other. A flash unit is considered a “dedicated flash” when it is designed for a specific camera make and model. A brand name of a dedicated flash is made by the manufacturer of the camera, whereas an off-brand or knock-off flash is manufactured by someone else to specifications for a camera’s features. The main concern in buying a knock-off or an off-brand flash is that it may not perform with all of the same feature functions as a brand name flash unit or it may not perform under certain conditions at all. You will also have to contend with the possibility that knock-off brand flash may damage your very expensive camera equipment. The positive side is that you may find a high quality off-brand flash from a respected manufacturer that will perform at a high standard of quality at significant price savings.

Just be sure to take some test photographs to make certain that your new flash unit will work properly and as expected in its various picture and imaging modes before you take important pictures, like weddings....

BATTERY TESTING: BE SURE YOU TEST YOUR FLASH BEFORE USING THEM:

Test and fire your flash before you prepare to actually begin taking pictures using the flash. Count the number of seconds it takes for it to recycle in the ready mode to fire again, the ready-light to come on, if it takes more than 15 seconds, you probably need new batteries. If you are using the new high quality lithium or rechargeable nickle-cadmium or rather NiCd batteries and the ready to use light does not come on after 10 seconds, then the batteries should be replaced with new or fully charged batteries. Fill flash is what you use when you have a light source and you wish to use the flash to fill in the shadows from the main source of lighting. An example of fill flash lighting is someone wearing a hat outside on a sunny day, the face will have a shadow or under someone's nose in the noon day sun.

USAGE OF A TRIPOD FOR THE SLOWER SHUTTER SPEEDS OF YOUR CAMERA:

If you will be using a fill flash in daylight and your shutter speed is less than 1/60 sec, you should be sure to use a tripod support to avoid the blur from camera shake. Most people will shake and extreme settings of the camera will show this.

UNWANTED FLASH REFLECTIONS AND OTHER HOT SPOTS:

One should be aware of reflective shiny surfaces when taking pictures. Glass, bright polished metals, glossy waxed wood and other shiny surfaces in a picture scene will bounce the light from your flash right back at you. This condition will create what is known as a “hot spot” in your picture and this is usually noticed when the surface is photographed straight on. A polarized filter is useful for taking pictures when glass is involved, like an aquarium or window. Take the picture at an angle and you should be alright and do not forget the filter.

The flash hot spot is always a common mistake for a beginner due to the fact that they do not see the reflected light when they are taking the picture. A studio modeling lights or an always on video camera light will show you the reflection prior to the shot and the photographer can reposition themselves, unlike an electronic flash that is dark until it fires. Reposition yourself 30 or 45 degrees when you see that your camera and the flash are facing a reflective surface so that the flash lighting strikes it at an angle that won’t reflect it back into your lens.

STORING YOUR FLASH UNIT:

Remove the batteries to prevent battery leakage problems and always use alkaline batteries or the new Nicad or lithium batteries. Insert fresh batteries into it once a month and then fire the flash several times to recharge the capacitor and keep it in good storage and condition.A capacitor is an electronic device to discharge elctricity and is used in televisions and other devices.

Store the flash unit in a cool, dry place. This is to be sure there is no chance of mold or mildew forming in it. Never keep it in the car in summer time. Don’t stow it near volatile chemicals that release vapors that can harm it, such as camphor or naphthalene, and keep it away from the electro-magnetic waves from televisions and radios.

FLASH SAFETY:

1) Never Expose an electronic flash unit to any water, including but not limited to, rain or salt spray at the beach, this could cause an electric shock or set the unit on fire. Most flash units are not waterproof, and will corrode if water gets in.

2) Touching the front of the flash unit lighting head during its usage can burn.

3) Never Fire a flash into someones eyes of at close range as this may damage the retina of their eyes, leading to partial or complete blindness. Never do this to a baby or infant, I have and use a flash diffuser for this.

4) Never disassemble or try to take your flash unit apart and don’t attempt to repair it. high-voltage circuitry can cause electric shock and death.

LCD PANELS:

If your flash has an LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) view panel, be sure to view it straight on, it will be difficult to read when viewing it from the side.
LCDs can become dark or black at temperatures of 140°F (60°C) and higher, and at cold temperatures below 41°F (5°C) slow down LCD’s. The LCD display will return to normal at room temperature - 68°F (20°C).